MatterHackers 3D Printed Protective Face Shield

Help healthcare officials and government agencies continue the fight against Covid-19 by 3D printing as many of these protective face shields as you are able. This face shield, designed by Erik Cederberg of 3D Verkstan, has been approved for clinical use by the National Institute of Health's COVID-19 Supply Chain Response.

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Product No. M-7LP-9Q7M

This 3D printed protective visor was designed by Erik Cederberg of 3D Verkstan. The print settings below were tested and suggested by 3D Verkstan.

Help fight the shortages for Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) caused by Covid-19 by 3D printing these protective face shields for hospitals and government agencies in need. Our essential workers are running low on important protective gear that help them continue providing the life saving services that are in extremely high demand right now.

A single 3D printer can make a positive, impactful difference. Whether you are an individual with a 3D printer in your home, or you manage a manufacturing floor filled with dozens of 3D printers and digital fabrication tools, any support you can provide will be hugely beneficial to our hospitals and government agencies in critical need. Download the files, follow the printing guidelines below, and make a difference today.


What Filament Should I Use?

PETG is recommended due to its temperature resistance and slightly better tolerance to some chemicals. If that is not accessible to you, PLA is an efficient alternative.

What Infill Percentage Should I Use?

None, as long as it prints fully solid. The fewer voids there are in the print, the easier it will be to clean and the less drying time users will need to wait after dipping these prints in disinfectant solution (which they will need to do repeatedly). To 3D print the visor frame fully solid, follow the Nozzle & Line Width guidelines below.

What Nozzle Size/Line Width Should I Use?

If possible, please consider using a larger than standard nozzle and a larger layer height than you may be used to. Quick turnaround and high production are the keys to this project which can be satisfied by using large nozzle sizes between 0.8mm to 1.2mm. Combining these large sizes with either a Mosquito Magnum or E3D Supervolcano maximizes production turnaround. HOWEVER, if you are unable to use a large nozzle with a high-flow hotend, you are still more than capable of providing helpful assistance for this project. Please follow the nozzle size/line recommendations below.

Optimal Line Width by Nozzle Size:

  • 0.4mm nozzle ---> Set line width to 0.4mm
  • 0.6mm nozzle ---> Set line width to 0.66 or 0.8mm
  • 0.8 mm nozzle ---> Set line width to 0.8mm or 1.0mm
  • 1.0mm nozzle ---> Set line width to 1.0mm
  • 1.2mm nozzle ---> Set line width to 1.33mm

Set your number of walls to be equal to ~2.5mm. So with a 0.8mm line width you should have at least 3 walls thickness. With 0.4mm, it should be at least 5, and with 1.33mm line width only 2 walls is needed. Following these suggested line width and wall number settings will make your print the strongest and fastest to print.

What Layer Height Should I Use?

0.6mm or below depending on your nozzle size. Any higher and the thin drip protection area above the eyes will fail to print.

Suggested Layer Heights By Nozzle Size:

  • 0.4mm nozzle ---> 0.25mm layer height (standard hotend)
  • 0.6mm nozzle ---> 0.3mm layer height (standard hotend)
  • 0.8mm nozzle ---> 0.3mm layer height (standard hotend)
  • 0.8mm nozzle ---> 0.5mm layer height (high-flow hotend)
  • 1.0mm nozzle ---> 0.6mm layer height (high-flow hotend)
  • 1.2mm nozzle ---> 0.6mm layer height (high-flow hotend)

What Print Speed Should I Use?

How fast you can push out these frames will be mainly determined by your hotend flow rate, the number that determines how much plastic your printer can melt in a certain amount of time.

Jump Right in to 3D Printing

Using the suggested layer thickness and line width above for the nozzle you are using, print at a speed of 40mm/sec. This should work on almost any printer.

Make sure to set ALL the different print speed settings to the same number, this design caters very well to this. Examples (which may be named differently on different slicing software) are settings titled Print Speed, Infill Speed, Wall Speed, Outer Wall Speed, Inner Wall Speed, and Top/Bottom Speed.

Initial layer print speed, however, should be lower than the other print speed settings to achieve good bed adhesion. A good starting value is about 20mm/sec.

Quick Production for Advanced Users

For a regular E3D V6 this is about 10mm3/sec, which with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height is calculated as: 10mm^3/(0.8mm*0.3mm) = ~40mm/sec,

A high-flow hotend like the Mosquito Magnum with a 0.8mm nozzle and a 1.0mm line width can on the other hand push more than 30mm3/sec, or 30mm^3/(1.0mm*0.5mm)= ~60mm/sec

A super high flow hotend like the E3D Supervolcano can melt up to 100mm3/sec, and with a 1.2mm nozzle and 1.33mm line width it can push 100mm3^3/(1.33mm*0.6mm) = ~125mm/sec

In practice, it might be hard to reach these numbers for other reasons. If you see signs of your printer underextruding or wanting to grind, start by lowering your print speed by 5mm/sec and increasing your print temperature by 5 degrees.

What Should I Look For In The Layer Preview?

A good sliced file shows the following when looking at the layer preview:

  • All lines follows the shape, no zig-zag patterns except on the thin surface in the front.
  • No weird break-ups in the lines where it looks like multiple short lines make up a longer one with small spaces in between
  • All lines seem to be touching each other, no large spaces in between them.

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