July 3, 2018
When you're ready to step up from printing prototypes and want a material that's ready to see some use, RYNO is your filament. Whether you're looking for small brackets or large assemblies, RYNO is an excellent choice for creating fully capable and functional products. In fact, all the parts on your Pulse are printed in Black PRO Series RYNO.
In order to make your RYNO 3D printing experience on your Pulse as smooth as possible, we've compiled some of the best practices for you to follow.
It doesn't matter what material you're printing, the temperature you're printing at makes a huge difference in your 3D printed part's quality. Print too hot and some supports may fuse to your part or some overhangs will curl from the heat, producing an ugly finish. Print too cold and while your 3D print looks great, it has zero adhesion between layers and crumbles from the slightest force - even squeezing it gently will make it crackle.
The best thing to do is start your prints - test or otherwise - at 240°C and then raise or lower the temperature by five degrees at a time and see what brings the optimal results. Here are some tell tale signs that your 3D print isn't at the right temperature.
If you see these things happening, trying dropping the temperature by five degrees and see if that helps. Repeat until you balance surface quality with inter-layer adhesion.
If you see these things happening, trying raising the temperature by five degrees and see if that helps. Repeat until you balance surface quality with inter-layer adhesion.
Whether you are changing to a different color of RYNO or changing materials all together, you can use the Unload and Load Macros specifically written and designed for the Pulse to guide you through the steps. If you choose to change filament manually, you can do the following steps instead:
And that's all there is to it. Changing filament is easy, and thanks to the simple Load/Unload buttons, changing filament has never been easier. But of course, you are free to do it manually as well if that is more convenient for you.
Make sure you're using the proper adhesive for your bed surface if one is required. Even still, make sure your first layer is in the goldilocks zone for the Z-offset, like mentioned previously; too close and you don't extrude or new layers lift up old ones, or too far and the part doesn't stick in the first place.
It's possible that while your Pulse is trying to extrude, something is preventing it from extruding as much as it wants to. Try increasing the temperature by 5 degrees and see if that improves things. It's also possible that the teeth in the drive gear of the extruder is filled with ground up filament. You can clean this out with a toothbrush, wire brush, or carefully with a knife or tweezers. You can also try increasing the tension on the extruder to get a better grip on the filament and prevent it from slipping (Bondtech upgrade only) .
This can happen when your Pulse is connected to your computer and the computer can't keep up. When you notice this happening, take note of what programs you have running or how hard your computer is working. Depending on your computer's hardware specifications, 3D modeling and running a print can be too much for your computer to handle, causing your Pulse to run through the data sent to it and wait to receive more. As it pauses, it oozes some filament out until it resumes. Turn off some programs and try printing again, or cut the computer out of the equation and run prints directly off of a microSD card (VIKI upgrade) or SD card (LCD upgrade).
If the hot end is hot, the extruder gear is turning, and no material is coming out, you might be jammed. Run the unload macro to remove the filament and read our "How To: Unclog a 3D Printer Nozzle" article to see how you can clear it. If the filament doesn't move when you run the unload macro, that would mean your extruder has a bite taken out of the filament at the extruder gear that is preventing it from gripping the filament at all. Simply disengage the tension on the extruder by pressing on the red lever (or pulling on the black lever for the Bondtech upgrade), and pull the material out manually.
Now that you've got your bearings on printing with RYNO, you're ready to succeed with all your RYNO 3D prints. From here you can print with all the colors of RYNO and have a general understanding of how to print with other copolyesters to some degree. There are some considerations that you will need with these other materials but are still very similar to printing with RYNO.
Feel free to share with us how your prints are going using #MatterHackers on social media.
Happy printing with your Pulse!
More printing requires proper maintenance. Check out how to keep your Pulse 3D Printer in tip-top shape here.
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